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Marrakesh to Bin El Ouidane - 140 miles |
Bright, if not a fully sunny morning saw us get through our normal departure routine in good time and away around 11.00 as usual. Today we are heading north east towards Fez and Meknes but, as they are too far to do in one day, we've decided to take a look at Les Cascades de Ouzoud which our guide book tells us are the best in Morocco and are just off (well........) our route. We've also spotted what might be a nice overnight stop next to a reservoir in the next valley.
So the first thing
TomTom does is send us down a minor road, single track with passing
hard shoulder when we really wanted the main N8, so quick turn round
and read the map and road signs. We could have gone that way but it
would probably have taken two days and we'd have shaken the van to
pieces – well more than we have already done! So a little closer
into Marrakesh and onto what appears to be a ring road until we find
our road.
The N8 is a straight,
reasonable road as Moroccan standards go and we made good time
through basically a boring plain, cultivated in many places and of
course through a few towns and villages. It wasn't until later that
we headed towards the Moyen Atlas mountains, looming out of the haze
as we started to look for our turn-off. Which we apparently missed
although in fairness the map does show it as a minor road so instead
we carried on to the turn for the reservoir from where we knew we
could take an alternative route.
The R304 almost
immediately started climbing into the mountains and, not being the
best of roads, was slow going. After much twisting and turning we
topped out at over 5000 ft before descending again and eventually
reaching the dam at Bin El Ouidane then onto where our site book
showed a disused boatyard available for 4/5 motorhomes to park
overnight. Well, yes it was there alright and was actually a nice
spot, until the old Moroccan who suddenly couldn't speak French
demanded 600 dirhams for parking! Not on your b----y life monsieur,
au revoir!
But just before there
we had spotted a large area of lakeside parking where enterprising
locals have, for want of a better description, motorised rafts
offering trips on the lake – no idea where they go or see because
apart from the reservoir banks there's nothing around. The water
level must be at least 80 feet below the cleared banks and it doesn't
look like it's been anywhere near full for years. It's obviously a
reasonably popular spot for there were quite a few cars parked and
also the inevitable guardian, who actually never bothered us. (We'll
add pictures tomorrow.)
Well after 3.00 pm we
hadn't yet had lunch so rectified that matter then realised it was
probably too late now to drive to the cascades, so we made ourselves
comfortable and decided to stay here for the night. Everybody slowly
disappeared and the boats went off to their overnight moorings,
leaving us quite alone, although there are plenty of lights from the
dwellings and hotels surrounding the lake. Later on a couple of, we
think, Dutch lads drove up and asked if they could put up tents –
help yourselves but the ground is like concrete so best of luck!
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