Tuesday 28 February 2017

Today the sun decided to cooperate and it's been clear blue sky all day, so we've taken advantage of it and done just the basics. An early walk down to the beach with Jamie resulted in him becoming so scruffy he went straight into the shower when we came back for a good wash. He looks (and smells) a lot better but he's been ignoring us for the rest of the day, he's not impressed with baths!

Not a lot else to report although we've noticed that the waves breaking on the beach have been getting bigger and we can see lines of them approaching which we haven't before - looks like there's been some serious winds somewhere. We're over 50 feet above the beach so should be okay, but if you don't hear from us again.......................

Monday 27 February 2017

We've now been in Morocco 5 weeks. We had intended moving today to join some friends at Tafraout and also see the Almond Festival. However when we started looking at what we still wanted to do we realised that we were running out of time and couldn't really afford a week, which is how long we would have needed to stay. Coupled with the gas getting a bit low – although that's not an insurmountable problem – we changed our minds last night and decided to stay here a couple more days where we've got electricity and the weather forecast is warm and dry.

So today it's been generally cloudy with just a few sunny intervals, nothing like the forecast!

Never mind, it's still warm and a nice campsite, although it seemed to empty this morning; perhaps we're seeing the start of the French exodus back home as it is the end of February. So we generally did quite a lot of nothing except spending a couple of hours cleaning Bertie's bodywork, he looks quite smart again.

Jamie periodically clamours to be taken down to the beach where he's decided he quite likes the water now and dragged Terry into it; just as well it's shorts weather! So he's next for a bath/shower!

Sunday 26 February

Got up – sun shining.

Full English breakfast – sun shining hotter.

Did some washing – sun still hot, nice breeze off the sea.

Went out for lunch in site restaurant. Okay but too hot to sit outside.

Sat in sun all afternoon.

Put dry washing away and do some packing up – gone a bit hazy but still very warm.

Strawberry tea – clear sky but horizon disappeared.

Quiet evening – still very warm.

Job Done!

Nice campsite but less than half full

Saturday 25 February 2017

Bit cloudy first thing but the sun burned it off to a nice warm sunny day, ideal for getting the washing done. Few chores then we took Jamie onto the beach for a good run and a paddle in the sea, he's been a bit short of a free run for a while. We also booked a meal in the restaurant for tomorrow lunchtime for a change.

Quiet afternoon and Terry found another Brit van parked a little way behind us who turned out to be Funsters, a couple who had wanted to travel with us but couldn't make it in time. Nice chat. Later we both had nice hot showers then enjoyed some of the steak we bought in Marjane in Agadir yesterday.

Sorry to bore you with our mundane domestics but it's not been a very exciting today – except when two army guys rode through the campsite on horses. Jamie went crackers, he doesn't like horses and T now has the clawmarks on his legs where the little bas darling took off like an exocet missile!

Even the sunset was a bit nondescript!

Friday 24 February 2017

Taroudant to Wassay Beach - 89 miles

A cloudy start which later turned to hazy sunshine, woken by the traffic around the town and the pedestrians walking by. Our target today is Agadir to do some serious shopping, we're almost out of everything so after breakfast, with no servicing available, we were off at 10.35 having decided to give a walk round the town a miss. We did see a lot of the town walls and they are very impressive, our Rough Guide telling us they're 5 km all round and can be walked the entire length.

TomTom tried to take us onto what we believed to be a back road so we ignored it and stuck to the N10, although Agadir was also signposted the other way. We subsequently discovered that it was a new “express” road which apparently avoided all the towns and villages slowing us down on the N10 and could probably have saved us some time. Not to worry, we still enjoyed the sights, there's no desperate rush and the road was quite good all the way into Agadir. We headed to the Marjane hypermarket where we joined numerous other motorhomes all apparently doing the same as us.

£125 later we managed to stow a very full trolley load of purchases all over Bertie – hope we can remember where it all went – and had lunch before setting off south to Sidi-Ouassai, better known as Wassay Beach where there is a good sized campsite overlooking the beach with all facilities. We've tentatively decided on 3 or 4 nights here but we'll have to look at the weather forecast – the one we've seen says it's going to be fine but this evening it's blowing a hooly and is looking decidedly hazy out to sea! But at least it's very warm.

Thursday 23 February 2017

Agdz to Taroudant - 182 miles

Away at our normal time after completing the usual chores and paying for our stay into another fine warm morning. Although we didn't seem to have a lot of rain last evening it soon became obvious that the area had quite a downfall as the countryside today all had a green tinge to it – it's true what they say, when it rains the desert turns green. Most of the river beds had water in them and there were a lot of puddles, some quite large – we even went through a proper “sploosh”, a ford that was running with water.

"Sploosh"

However the roads were dry and not bad as Moroccan standards go so that generally we were able to keep up a reasonable average speed. Travelling westwards between the Haute (High) Atlas and Anti-Atlas mountain ranges the road was mostly straight and level although we did climb over a couple of “Tizi's”, mountain passes with steep hills and tight bends. This wasn't a problem of course because there was next to no traffic on this quiet cross-country route, which, incidentally, was mostly over 5000ft amsl.

Snow on Haute Atlas mountains in the distance

Interesting geology

Approaching Tazenakht

Refuelled in Tazenakht where we joined the N10, a national route that will eventually take us all the way to Agadir, although it's just a little too far to reach comfortably today. Still spectacular mountain scenery and interesting geological formations abounded – the locals have a small trade in fossils and minerals and we've come across several “museums”, all with free entry. But you just try to get out without buying something..............!

A long stretch of serious roadworks, 3km of which were on piste, meant we found it difficult to stop anywhere for lunch. We passed through many towns and villages but in our experience you just get pestered if you try to stop there. However we eventually managed to pull off the road at a “bus stop” - actually a bit of old road behind a shelter at the end of a village road. It wasn't too long thereafter that the road suddenly improved to a fast smooth surface and we were only slowed by speed limits appearing at odd places. We had now descended and entered the Sous Valley where agriculture had seriously taken over; oranges, lemons, olives, bananas – there was even a field of water melons.

Goats in the argon trees at our lunch stop

Well officer, we were just driving along when this tree pulled out in front of us!

Eventually we rolled into the walled town of Taroudant where we found motorhome parking beneath the town walls. The main area was packed like sardines but a secondary space round the corner had loads of room so we settled down there. It's supposed to be guardian parking but we've seen no sign of a guardian or the waste disposal and water facilities that the book says are here. Not to worry, having fully serviced Bertie this morning we're self-sufficient for a couple of days. It's also a little noisy, but we noticed we're actually parked in a lighted area next to an army barracks so we're not concerned about security.

The town is supposed to have an interesting medina so we may take an hour out in the morning for a look-see.  

Wednesday 22 February 2017

Merzouga to Agdz - 186 miles

Normal start to another bright sunny day although we did manage to get the chores done a little quicker today, useful as we've a way to go, and were off at 10.20. Just up the road we caught up with the Renault 4 Rallye again, this time there were at least a hundred and it looked like we caught them at a staging point. Almost immediately we stopped for fuel as we were down to half a tank again (remarkably good consumption since the last refill, but we've been mostly gently cruising on the level) before retracing our steps as far as Rissoni where we turned off west – only to meet another Rallye, this time Spanish Fiat Pandas, but at least it was going the other way.

More Renault 4's

A double-decker taxi-bus!

The N12 turned out to be a reasonably good road by Moroccan standards with very little traffic and we made excellent time along a route that crosses a flat plain of hamada between two ranges of mountains so pretty scenic once again. Stopped at Alnif, a reasonable size town, for bread and milk and a little later by the roadside for lunch, eyeing a large bank of clouds that we had been approaching for some time and looked rather wet.

Lunch stop

The Sphinx has moved - or we've gone wrong somewhere!

Sure enough within a few miles we ran into a shower which turned into quite a heavy rainfall but didn't really slow us down – at least it gave Bertie a bit of a wash and cooled the tyres! It quickly dried up although the rest of the day remained cloudy with sunny intervals all the way to our planned nightstop at Agdz, Le Kasbah de les Palmeries where we stopped for a few days last week.

Found a nice spot, settled in and a cuppa – we're only staying overnight so only got out the basics. Just as well because half an hour later the rain caught up with us again although it doesn't look as if it will last long, but again a bit of a wash down for Bertie.

There's another Brit on the site and the registration looks vaguely familiar – might go and introduce ourselves later if/when the rain stops. Only the second we've seen in two weeks!

Tuesday 21 February 2017

We hadn't anything planned for today so our early start seemed a bit pointless but we just took our time and after breakfast took Jamie for a walk into the desert proper – and he loves sand dunes. Must be because they're nice and soft after the hamada he's been walking on. It being a much clearer day with the wind dropped away we could see the dunes marching off into the distance and took a few photos, which of course don't do the reality any justice whatsoever.

A quiet day thereafter, sitting in the sun for an hour or so and watching the antics of the group of off-roaders coming and going. We think they're a tour group as a couple of them have got a tour company logo on their vehicles and also sweatshirts. Later a few photos as the sun sets.

It's very quiet here, quiet that is in respect of a lack of Brits, or indeed motorhomes. This is starting to make us feel unsettled and although we don't dislike this place, and the scenery is unique of course, we are beginning to need something else. We still have plenty of time available for us in Morocco to do the things we want to do so we've decided to head west back to the coast and maybe link up with a few friends, most of whom seem to have stayed over there, rather than go north through the mountains which was our original plan. Tomorrow, therefore, we'll take a different route heading for Agadir, roads that we know to be fine. It will probably take us 2/3 days but we're in no rush.

Monday 20 February 2017

Goulmima to Merzouga - 104 miles

Moving on today so after the usual routine we left the campsite to find a lot of roadbuilding had been started whilst we were parked up and we had to pick our way round big road machines! Then a little bit of backtracking; there is a cross-country road but we didn't want to chance it and stuck to the good road we used yesterday until it turned off toward Erfoud.

A roadside Berber "relaxation place"

It was now getting quite desolate with totally flat hamada stretching into the distance; it had been (and still was) quite windy which had kicked up a lot of dust so distance visibility was not very good. However closing on Erfoud we found ourselves following the obvious course of a river with palms and some small cultivated areas, which continued as we turned south.

Impressive entrance gate to Rissani

Sometimes the mural is better than the real thing!

Sand dunes in the distance

A flotilla of ships of the desert

Erg Chebbi

At El Rissani the road deviated off towards Merzouga once more crossing flat hamada but which was now turning sandy with vague outlines of elevated dunes in the hazy distance. Out of this landscape we started to see shapes of off-road vehicles batting along obvious desert roads, lots of them, then as they got closer we saw they were all Renault 4s and were a motor rallye which we had come across last year in northern Morocco, on their way home. There were dozens of them, and then they suddenly turned off and disappeared into the desert again. But they were obviously heading to Merzouga because that's where we caught up with them again a little later.

R4 Rallye at Merzouga

Merzouga is one of several small towns that line the Erg Chebbi, a line of high sand dunes which mark the border of the desert proper. It has developed into a tourist trap with lots of auberges and hotels, all offering camel rides, 4x4 trips into the desert and the like. Rather than campsites, motorhomes – and indeed tents – are accomodated by several of the auberges/hotels with dedicated parking areas attached to their grounds providing facilities which often include those of the hotel. One of these, Les Portes du Desert, featured in our campsite book and was also “recommended” by a guy on a moto who flagged us down (well actually pulled in front of us and stopped – we were only crawling along) so we gave it a try.

Hotel Les Portes du Desert

A spacious walled area adjacent to the hotel with some marked bays, we chose to park close to the wall for protection against the wind and flying sand but still with good sunshine – and an electricity point! There were quite a few vans parked, the inevitable “caravan” of French and a gaggle of proper off-road campers, big trucks and four wheel drive conversions. It also had a fine view of the sand dunes, which is really what we had come to see, and will probably explore tomorrow.

View from our pitch

A late lunch then relax, but it was far too windy to put the awning out – we tried and nearly lost it! - and too hot and dusty to sit out so we retired “indoors. For some reason we're now both a little weary so we'll have a couple of nights here then head north; probably had too much “desert”!

Sunday 19 February 2017

Just a short post today as it's been quite unremarkable here at Guelmima. Started off bright and sunny, letting us relax and work on our tans, but after lunch it started to cloud over and later a hint of drizzle although it's still warm enough to go about in shorts and T-shirt. Odd really as the forecast was for clear sky and sunshine for at least the next few days. But as I write it does seem to be breaking in the south-west so it may change overnight.

Most of the vans departed this morning leaving just us and a German gin-palace, but after lunch a new arrival – a Brit, the first we've seen in 10 days! Had a brief chat but don't appear to be very outgoing so we won't push ourselves.

Plan to move on tomorrow, destination Merzouga which is about as far to the south and east as you can reasonably go in a normal motorhome. Supposed to be proper sand dunes there too!

Saturday 18 February 2017

We chose a pitch to give us sunshine all day so it was already very warm at breakfast. A knock on the door and we were handed a freshly-cooked crepe – you don't get that at the Caravan Club! Later we were brought a roundel of bread, again fresh from the oven (although that was ordered earlier) and the lady also took away our bag of washing. What service!

After breakfast it was cleanup day taking the opportunity to empty the van, brush the floors and seats, air the rugs etc. A damp cloth tackled the accumulated dust and even the windows got cleaned too. The smalls were washed through and hung to dry in the hot, but now a little hazy, sunshine. A couple of running repairs and our morning was complete. We include this just to make sure you understand this is not a holiday, just a “relocation”!

Let me tell you a little more about the site, situated very close to the centre of town and which is apparently French owned and run with the able assistance of several lovely ladies and a young receptionist who speaks perfect English. And French, German, Italian, Spanish, Arabic, Berber and goodness knows what else. There are some that can......

It is an ex-municipal site and the original facilities have all been upgraded to European standard, retaining just enough of a Moroccan air, and look to have been very recently redecorated. The pitches are all of a very generous size, almost double what you get elsewhere, some shaded others in full sun with electricity to each. Water taps are scattered about taking advantage of the irrigation system that supplies agricultural plots all around the edge. An additional toilet block has been built at the far end of the site where a dozen new pitches have been laid out. There's also quite the best motorhome service point we've ever seen in Morocco!

Mini zoo

Best looking donkey in Morocco!

There is a swimming pool with clean water in it, a cafe/restaurant with a very posh lounge and for the kids a mini zoo with a friendly donkey, goats, sheep, rabbits, ducks – and a huge Rottweiler! If there is anything negative, it is that it's situated behind the bus station and each bus announces it's intended departure by blasting it's horn! Oh and there's two mosques close by who try to outdo each other with their calls to prayer – which start at 5.30 a.m., but you get that everywhere.

All in all, a lovely little place and tomorrow we'll go and explore the town.

Friday 17 February 2017

Gorges du Dades to Guelmima - 123 miles

Cold when we first got up, once the sun came over the hill it warmed up quickly and we got all the chores done in record time. We'd run out of our usual crunchy muesli for breakfast and had bought cornflakes yesterday – haven't had cornflakes for years, very nice with dried strawberries topping.

Our plan was to continue up the gorge as far as we deemed reasonable/sensible as we have to come back this way – the map does show a through road but states it is closed November to April. Morer later. The road was the usual Moroccan standard, generally quite good 2-way with the occasional bad bit, some very tight bends and a section of piste through a narrow bit with rock overhanging – see pix below together with some more we took along the way. Going to save todays dashcam footage and turn it into a video.

The scenery was spectacular and, as always the photos don't do it any justice, but at least the road was quiet. We passed the French tour group and reached over 6000 ft amsl before suddenly running out of road!

So we turned round and headed down again, but noticed there was quite a lot of traffic, mainly taxis and taxi-buses, heading up so it must be passable. However we decided not to put any more strain on Bertie and stick with our plan. The scenery was just as good going down.

Dades UFC, complete with changing rooms, training pitch etc

Just as tight the other way!

What can YOU see?

We eventually returned to the main road at Boulmane du Dades where we parked in the main street to do some shopping for stuff we didn't get yesterday. Mission soon accomplished and we moved a little way out of town to a viewpoint carpark and had lunch.

By now it was too late to make Merzouga today so instead we chose a likely looking place at Goulmima and set off on an excellent fast and quite busy road, passing through towns whose names we had no idea of as they weren't on any of our maps! What we did notice, however, was that they were all quite modern, neat and tidy, and close to Boulmane it looked like two enormous residential areas were under construction, who for we've no idea.

Having decided to give the Gorges du Todra a miss, we arrived at Camping les Tamaris to find perhaps the best site we've been on this trip, including in Europe! An ex-municipal site, there appeared to be a French lady owning/running it with an excellent receptionist who spoke perfect English. More tomorrow but we settled in and had a cuppa before having a quick walk around checking it out.

We've decided to stay at least 3 nights and get some chores done.